Update 2018: This whole experiment lasted about six months. It was fine while it lasted, but let’s be honest – it’s just a numbers game. As I’ve said before, riding a bike in Bangkok isn’t deadly, but it isn’t safe, and the more often you ride, the higher the chances are of something happening. With a toddler at home and a nervous wife, I decided to just submit to The Man and take the BTS to work.
If you’ve read my site before you probably know that I ride my bike a lot in and around Bangkok (or used to, before I had a kid). Most of these rides begin in the city proper, but head out toward the quieter suburbs, which is less hectic and more enjoyable. Riding solely in the city is something that I seldom do, but that changed recently when I decided to start riding my bike to work. After about two months of this, I thought I should reflect on how it’s going.
I’ve said it before, but riding a bike in Bangkok isn’t as dangerous as most people think it is. It’s not safe by any stretch of the imagination, but unless you’re riding along a major artery (and there are very few reasons to do so) most roads are easily navigable if you are patient, understand how the traffic works, and ride safely (ie, no headphones, use hand signals, shoulder check, etc).
The most common question I get is “Aren’t you a sweaty, disgusting mess when you get to work?”
All this came about because I was hired to write something on commuting in Bangkok, which involved a look at those who ride their bikes. I decided it would be disingenuous of me to do so without actually trying it, so I decided to give it a go for a month. Two months later, I’m still going strong, and plan to continue doing it.
My previous commute consisted of a 3-minute walk to a motorbike taxi, a short motorbike taxi ride to the BTS, 20 minutes on the BTS, and a 5-minute walk to work, for a total commute time of about 35-45 minutes, depending on how long I had to wait for the train. This cost me about 1,800 baht a month on a stored value transit card, depending on how many times I used the card on the weekends or evenings.
Now to riding. My route is from the Thonburi side of the river to Silom, straight up Silom, across Rama IV, and down Ratchdamri to Central World, where my office is, a total of about 6.5km. Crossing the river is the worst part, but after that, it’s a breeze – 20 or 25 minutes (depending on lights) and I’m in the elevator going up to my desk, which means I can bike to work in anywhere from 25-35 minutes, depending on the ferry. Plus I’m saving 1,800 baht a month, and riding about 13km a day. Not bad. My route is the same on the way back. Here’s a map:
The most common question I get is “Aren’t you a sweaty, disgusting mess when you get to work?” Not really. First, the ride isn’t that strenuous. It’s not a race, and I ride at a steady, comfortable speed. I wear a wick-dry bike shirt and carry my work shirt in my backpack. I change when I get to the office, and a little USB fan on my desk keeps a nice cool breeze on my face as I cool down. When I used to walk from the BTS station, I often arrived just as, if not more, sweaty. And if all else fails, some emergency baby powder and deodorant in my desk will get me smelling real purdy real quick.
I even made a video with a handlebar-cam on my way to work, at 1 frame per second, which is 30x normal speed. Because of this, it appears a lot crazier than it is.
Positives: Riding my bike to work is faster, cheaper, and healthier than taking the BTS, and I’m going to continue to do it as long as I can (though I’m curious how the upcoming rainy season will go).
Negatives: Changing into new clothes at work is a minor pain in the ass, and if it starts to rain at the end of the day, I have to make alternate plans. It’s also far less safe than taking the BTS, and only those very comfortable with riding in Bangkok should try it.
“Aren’t you a sweaty, disgusting mess when you get to work?” 😛
Good work Greg, your the man !
err captchpa problems…
Just randomly came across your blog and read a few entries. How long did you keep up your bike commuting? I couldn’t imagine commuting by bike in BKK but I’m not sure I could drive there either…
Hi ceec, good question. Well, I kept it up for about 4 months, but then the rainy season hit and put a kibosh on that…who wants to ride home in the rain? And after that I just sort of soured on the idea. While I’m a big proponent of biking in Bangkok, it’s basically a numbers game – the more you ride in traffic, the higher the chances of an accident. My wife wasn’t thrilled about the idea, and we have a young kid now, so I decided to just keep my riding to weekend pleasure rides, unfortunately.
Interesting read. I drive a motorbike every day in Bangkok and I feel like the bike would be a lot more dangerous for whatever reason. As least people here your with a motorbike. I might try a day and see how it goes.
Oh and great content on Bangkok by the way. 😉
Thanks Mojomatt. Yeah, you get a certain amount of weight and momentum and noise with a motorbike that you don’t get with a bicycle, but with a bicycle you can also stop much faster, hope up on sidewalks easier, and maneuver around obstacles (cars, fruit carts, terrified pedestrians) much easier. If you put some effort into finding a route through some back sois to your destination (if there are any), your ride will be much safer and more relaxing.
The only accidents I have had in Bangkok are on the canal paths. You saw one of them. So, I would say that the most dangerous cycling in Bangkok is on the canals.
Yeah, and it helps when traffic is going about 10kph…even if you do hit something, you’ll just bump it harmlessly. 🙂 Still, no cause to let your guard down.
Hi!
I am moving to Bangkok in August. My concern is about stealing. I will depend on my bicycle to move around (I will live in Nonthaburi, very far from everything), and I would like to know if it is safe to leave the bicycle parked on the street, even with strong lockers.
Thanks!
Hey Daniel, unfortunately, I doubt it. Thieves are fast and bold, and you’ll likely find it gone pretty soon. I think bike theft here is quite common – a friend of mine years ago parked a bike steps away from a police box with cops inside, and when he got back it had been stolen. He asked them and they were basically like “Not our job to watch your bike.” lol Might be worth seeing if you can pay someone to park it in their garage/yard/store or something, near where you need to be.
Bike theft? Hmm…That’s a concern. I just ordered a bike, literally it’s being delivered to me in a few days and I’m super excited! The plan is to stick it on the back of the car so on my yoga day, I could just ditch the car and ride my bike to the studio. It would be an absolute worry-free from arriving late for the class because of the unpredictable Bkk traffic.
I had always been wanting to have a bike for a long time but riding a bike in Bkk sounds like a voluntary suicidal. I only got around to buy one after having thought that….
a) I don’t have kids and my cats would not careless whether I’m dead or alive.
b) It would only be a couple times a week.
c) My husband has paid for half of the bike cost so he’s totally on board with me taking all kind of risks. Suspiciously, he’d like to get out of this marriage 🙂
Ehhh, it ain’t so bad – you can easily use Google Maps (and a bit of trial and error) to find a route that’s probably got very little traffic. I often ride from Saphan Taksin to Phuttamonton Sai 4 and probably only 20% of it is on roads!
I’ve been doing bike to work and to commute everywhere here in bangkok for the last year, and still doing great! for me, cycling is the best option since BTS and MRT could be more expensive. And given the chance it’s much faster to arrived in short distance. I always setting up at high gear so i don’t move too much and ended up sweats a lot.
Yeah, short distances it’s clearly the winner. The big problem, though, is when rainy season arrives. It usually rains in the afternoon, so unless you’re cool with riding home and getting soaked, you have to leave your bike at work, and arrange if/how to get it the next day…unless it rains again. 🙂