I hate writing posts like this because there’s no way to come off as anything but one of the thousands of complaining douchebag expats that live in Thailand, which is really not what I’m about. Well, usually not what I’m about – we’re all allowed to have off-days, but I’m generally a pretty up-beat guy. Anyway, any regular commuter who uses the BTS in Bangkok will have noticed that it’s been pretty crowded of late – and not just “Wow, this is slightly inconvenient” crowded, but “Wow, I hope no one falls on the tracks and dies” crowded. There are several reasons why, so forgive me if I rant on a bit about what it’s like to ride the BTS these days. Hopefully someone at the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration (BMA, English link doesn’t work, natch) will see this and take immediate, effective, and far-reaching action! Also, I’d like a Learjet.
From what I can see on my often-multiple daily trips on the BTS, there are four main problems contributing to the electric train system quickly becoming the bane of every commuter’s day. It’s a shame because the train has really opened up the city, and made it easy – sometimes even a pleasure! – to get around. Keep in mind that not every station is the same, and some problems can be fixed at some stations, but certainly not all, so these points aren’t blanket statements:
Space at stations is limited
If you’re one of the poor suckers who need to buy a ticket, you often need to get in THREE lineups before you can even get on the train, especially during rush hour. One to get change; one to buy the ticket; one to get through the gate. Due to the relatively small size of the ticketing area, this results in multiple lines for multiple steps crisscrossing and curling around each other like some kind of weird moshpit. If you’ve been to Siam or Asok during rush hour, you know what a mess this is: lines of bulky backpackers, harried commuters, screaming kids, bored students and confused tourists all shuffling through and around each other.
Speaking of gates, there is scant room to add more. If things get really bad, some of the cheesy shops located on the gate level can be pulled out and extra gates installed, but only two or three, and this will likely be a last resort, as it would mean losing out on rent revenue from the shops.
Up on the train platform is where it gets most dangerous. At peak hours, there are often crowds so big that they have to literally close off the stairs so more people don’t come up. Commuters line the platform inches away from a 100-ton train as it slides into the station – all it would take is one person to trip and 4 or 5 people would surely fall onto the tracks. Besides getting rid of the crowds, there is probably no solution to this – short of major construction/renovation that would likely shut the station and/or line down, there is no room to expand the height, length, or width of a BTS station.
This is either a Backstreet Boys concert or Asok station during evening rush hour.
No extra cars/frequencies
Once the 5km extension to Bearing opened a few weeks ago, people at On Nut, the previous terminal station, started complaining immediately that the trains were arriving packed. Seems that the people in charge thought the addition of five new stations didn’t require any new trains, which is like using the same amount of butter for five pieces of toast as you do for one piece. What was supposed to happen was that extra cars from the Silom line (which uses new four-car trains) were to be put to use on the Sukhumvit line (which still uses three-car trains), but if that ever happened, it didn’t do enough, and judging from the angry letters in the Bangkok Post, I’m not the only one who thinks so.
During rush hour, the trains are pretty packed – not Japan-style packed, but full nonetheless. One gets a vague sense of satisfaction when your train pulls up to a platform, the doors open, and the faces of the people waiting there drop as they realize they won’t be getting on yet another train. Despite feeling bad for them, all my brain does is say “Ha, glad I’m not you!” Of course, the following day, I have to wait for five trains to go past before I’m able to get on. #karma Here’s a short clip of a train pulling into the station – not safe, no matter how you look at it. Just look at what happened to that poor girl in Singapore.
The Airport Link
The new airport link is a great idea, but in typical Thai fashion it was so poorly planned and executed that there were recent whisperings that the owners might pull an HP and just cut their losses by abandoning the whole thing (which was denied). The problems with the airport link are numerous and mystifying – almost everyone I talked to predicted exactly what has happened as far back as two years ago; it seems the only people who didn’t know (or care) what the outcome would be were the ones building the damn thing. But that’s another story for another rant.
The problem with the airport link/BTS is that despite its flaws, a lot of people are still using it, mostly commuters who live in the eastern suburbs. This means that the station where the two lines meet (Phayathai) is another gateway where large crowds of people are entering the loop, many of them coming from the airport with giant suitcases. Add this to the fact that Phayathai is only two stations south of Victory Monument and two stations north of Siam (arguably the two busiest stations in the city), and this stretch of track becomes very unpleasant to enter, exit, or ride on. More convenient links to buses and taxis, easier ways to get in and out and more room on the platform would help, but…see the point above.
Because it’s such a pain to ride, this is about as busy as it ever gets.
BTS Extensions
This isn’t so much a problem as it is a solution that’s somehow causing problems. The BMA is moving ahead, slowly but surely, with a plan that will eventually see a good chunk of Bangkok served by various rail routes (this Google Map by a guy named Dave is pretty badass but not sure how accurate it is). To be honest, if this continues I think Bangkok will be a pretty stupendous place to live in about 10 years, with easy access to all kinds of outlying areas and a few notches up on the quality of life scale, but for now, it’s causing more problems than it’s worth. Commuting is becoming increasingly unpleasant and waits of 30 or 45 minutes until you can fit on a train aren’t uncommon during rush hour. Clearly something needs to be sorted out.
HOWEVER! All that being said, the BTS is still a very efficient, clean, and easy way to get around the city. When I visited Calgary about three years ago I was shocked (and embarrassed, as my girlfriend was with me and I talked the place up a lot) at the awful ghetto-style train that the city relied on. Cigarette burns, dark, dingy stations, and cramped seating made it really unpleasant. I close by saying that the BTS in Bangkok is still a great service – but if they don’t smarten up, it won’t stay that way for long.
Also, on Calgary’s C-Train, you may very literally end up dying of fright.
I have heard that Asoke/Siam stations can be a nightmare to get on at. Thank god I walk home from work! It still amazes me the amount of people who buy single use tickets as if it is the only time they will be using the BTS. Nice post.
Fee + deposit on the BTS card is 100 baht (just for the convenience of swiping, no discount fares offered). Not a small amount given that half the Thais make the minimum wage of 300 baht per day. In the U.S. the equivalent would be about $20, so no wonder they’re buying single-use tickets.
Those cards are easy to lose as well (and then you lose the 100 baht + the balance, may well cost a 7-11 worker a whole day of wages). Plus, you need a separate one for MRT…
Good point Disabuse, it never struck me. Different strokes, I guess – some would be willing to wait in line for 20 minutes to avoid paying an extra 20b. I guess I’m lucky in that I’m able to pay for the convenience of avoiding it.
I haven't been to Thailand in 2 years but I do remember in particular Siam being very crowded with people almost all the time. I can imagine now though with the opening of the airport link and the extensions being constructed, the system is much more overloaded than before.
Quite honestly, I am both excited and annoyed at the same time that the BTS and BKK's mass transit is getting crowded. Annoyed obviously because it won't be such a breeze to get around the city. Instead of dealing with traffic jams of cars, it's people this time around.
I am excited because that means the more people use it (hopefully) the more demand it spurs for the more timely construction of planned transit lines. Of course this could just be wishful thinking…
Since it would be very difficult to expand the stations, I think the solution here is simply longer cars and higher frequencies. I hear there is room for 6 cars at the BTS stations. If they had 6 cars and intervals of 2-3 minutes during rush hour, that should help alleviate the problem a bit. Or they could just pack themselves like sardines like they do in Japan during rush hour.
And yeah, I get annoyed having to line up to get change, to get a ticket and then finally get in the Station. I don't know if BKK has a smart card like Tokyo does but I know that it is a breeze to travel around Tokyo because the systems are integrated and the ticket machines don't require only change.
I have to admit, I chuckled a bit about the people living in On Nut station being angry at the fact the cars were full by the time it reached them. Living on a terminal station always guarantees you a seat. I live on one of the busiest lines in Tokyo (Tozai Line) and I can NEVER get a seat on that thing in the morning. In fact, I am lucky if I get into a comfortable position standing up.
I wonder how the Bangkok Metro is holding up. Although I use the BTS more because it goes where I want it to go (Siam), I have to admit I prefer the Bangkok Metro ride. It is much more comfortable for me.
Thanks for posting Ben. You're right, there is space for 6 cars, and a new train every 2-3 minutes would likely solve any problems with overcapacity immediately, at least for the next four or five years. The one ticket system that's used in many other more organized cities around the world is a dream of many people here, but there's simply too much money to be made in having separate systems for each mode of transport, so it'll take some time for these hosers to get it figured out. Good luck on the Tozai line… 🙂
I'd noticed a rash of complaints about the BTS on Twitter these last few weeks, and it's not until I read this that I linked them with the line extension. I was last in BKK just before the new stations opened so my experience has always been pleasant.
Leaving aside the problems caused by the recent extension, I've always considered the BTS one of the best mass transit systems of any major city. Compared to the New York, London and Tokyo subways (especially Tokyo) the BTS is relatively uncrowded (again, I'm talking about the BTS pre-extension), easy to navigate and used by some of the most polite commuters I've ever had the good fortune to encounter. One can only hope that longer trains with greater frequency are introduced to alleviate the problem.
At the end of the day you just have to thank God you don't live up here in Chiang Mai, where I have to get around by bicycle. It's inhuman
Thanks Keith, you're right – compared to other big cities (like Calgary, as I mentioned in the post), the BTS is still a pretty great way to get around. It's just that the problems its experiencing have been predicted by so many for so long, that I think the only people who didn't get it are the ones in charge.
And getting around by bicycle? Sounds like a dream! 🙂